Baltimore Friends Records

Your saltwater aquarium will not complete without a protein skimmer. The protein skimmer is the filtration equipment used for removes protein and other organic compounds. The protein skimmer will keep the water clarity, increase dissolved oxygen inside the tank, and prevent the growth of algae. Due to these reasons, the protein skimmer is indispensable in a saltwater aquarium. So what features do the best protein skimmer? In this post, we will get to look at two of the top protein skimmer: Coralife Supper skimmer VS. Reef Octopus Classic.

#1 Skimmer capacity

Each skimmer will be produced for the different aquarium size. Check if the skimmer can handle your tank or not before buying. Coralife Super Skimmer comes with 3 sizes are available for 65, 125 and 220 gallons aquariums. You can choose the model that suitable for your tank size. Reef Octopus is have been known for delivering impressive filtration for the tank up to 265 gallons. However, you are recommended to use the skimmer that has a higher capacity than the tank. That will ensure that the skimmer will finish its job in less time without strains.

#2 Skimmer Sizes

It is especially important if you do not have many planks place inside and outside your tank. You should keep in mind the size of the skimmer and how it would be mounted. It is should large enough for the filtration process but still compact enough not to take up lots of space. Reef Octopus Classic has a small size at 12,4 x 10 inches and high at 23,2 inches tall when full setup. This is the small device that can fit in the sump and do not cut your view and work for most saltwater tanks with strong power. Coralife supper dimensions are 4,2 x 2,5 x 20,8 inches much smaller than Reef Octopus. Moreover, it also offers two options of install, it can hang on the aquarium or used in a sump.

#3 Features

Corali supper skimmer includes the patented wheel pump with a venture, which mixes the air bubbles into the water in order to remove waste in the water. It also allows the user can adjust the water height and foam production by the turn spinner. The bubble diffuser takes responsible for prevents micro-bubbles go into the aquarium. Reef Octopus has a pinwheel pump system, which is to produce air bubbles within the skimmer. With this ultra-efficient pump, Reef Octopus skimmer can draw water at rates of 211 GPH.

Choosing the right cage for guinea pigs is absolutely one of the most important factors that keep your guinea pigs stay happy and healthy.  There are many different types of cages out there, and of them is multi level guinea pig cage. Whether you are a new owner of guinea pigs or you are those who want to upgrade your guinea pig to a better cage with more additional features. This multi level cage may meet your needs and better suited for your pets.

 What is multi level cage for guinea pig?

Some guinea pigs cages are multi level, it is from 2 to 5 levels that are connected by wide ramps. If you are keeping excitable of guinea pig or you want to keep more guinea pigs but limited in space, multi level cage might be the ideal cage for your home. This also allows your pets can observe from a high vantage point. The multi level cage also has the extra tall ceilings, which make more open space and add space enough for even the largest of guinea pigs. Your guinea pigs will have more room for both play and living space without taking up more floor space. This type of cage particularly suitable for the guinea pigs that enjoy climbing on multi level platforms.

The drawback of multi level cage for guinea pig

Not every guinea pig will prefer to climb on multi level. Some of them are less agile than others. So it is a risk that your guinea pigs fall from a level that is too high and get hurt. Make sure that your pets would like to climb and choosing the multi level cage that contains the curved safety ramp. There are also some guinea pigs that scare of heights; you should not choose the cage with much of level for them.

On average, a ferret will eat about 5-7% of their bodyweight in food every day. However, this ratio can be varied depend on different period of their lifetime. During growth, pregnancy, lactation or periods of high exercise they will need to eat more with higher protein level in diet. On the other hands, older ferrets may well need less than this. So, you should monitor your ferret’s weight and the best diet for ferrets should be changed accordingly is important throughout their life.

#1 What do I do if I have to change my ferret’s food?

Quickly changing your ferret’s diet can easily upset his stomach, so you want to make any changes as slowly as possible. You can get start with the mixture of the new food into your ferret’s old food at a ratio of 1 part new food to 9 parts old food. This is because if they don’t identify a food type as edible early on, it can be difficult to get them to take to it. You just should add a little more of the new food item, and take away a little more of anything you want to replace, every day. Gradually increase the part of new food and decrease the ration of old food in their diet. This slow transition can take several weeks, but do not hurry as your ferrets can be very stubborn.

#2 When should I change my ferret’s diet?

As your ferret gets older, he might become less active and his metabolism may start to slow down as well. This is when you should change their diet. Too much protein level in diet can make them gaining an unhealthy amount of weight. So you should change to the recipes, which are lower in protein and fat which means they are also lower in calories. Some younger ferrets, who have healthy problems such as kidney issues, also should be offered these reciepts. Always talk to your veterinarian before switching your ferret’s diet.

#3 Tips for changing

In the case a brand either changes its ingredient makeup or goes out of business, you should offer your pets with a variety diet from a young age will make your ferret much more open to a range of foods. Starting an older ferret on a new food can be difficult, if not impossible.

Once you get the best UVB light for Iguanas, you also have to know how to properly use it. Regardless of the UVB bulb type you choose to use with your pet Iguanas, there are some mistake you did that can block or reduce the amount of UVB rays. These following are several things to keep in mind and avoid when using UVB bulbs for Iguanas if you want your pet can receive maximum benefit from your purchase.

#1 Mounting UVB bulb further away from the cage

As you increase the distance between your pet and the UVB bulb, UVB radiation dissipates rapidly. You will have to ensure our iguana is able to get close enough to the UVB lighting for it to be effective. Most UVB bulbs will recommend in the labels with the minimum distance from the bulb. As the basic rule, Mercury vapor bulbs, should be 12-18″ away, 8-12″ inches is minimum distance for linear or compact fluorescent lighting. Make sure to consult the specific manufacturer’s recommendations before choosing the types of UVB bulbs and also carefully consider the the distance between the bulb and your pet.

#2 Block UVB rays by Glass or acrylic cage wall

If you are using a glass top on your terrarium or vivarium, and place your Iguanas tank next to the window then you cannot expect your animal to receive any UV benefit because UVB rays cannot pass through glass, and if they do, it cuts down on the output significantly. UVB rays also cannot pass through plastic and acrylic. Make sure that there is no any glass or acrylic/plexiglass between your UVB bulb and your pet. In the case if you want to setup a lid for your Iguanas cage, it is better to looking for the larger sized mesh available as screens and mesh can also block a part of UVB rays as well.

#3 Using UVB bulbs for a long time

Even you get the best UVB blubs, they all lose their effective over time. Even when the visible light output can remain the same, it not means that UVB bulbs do not degrades. UVB production will begin to drop off as soon as the bulb is first turned on. Once you use your bulb or a certain length of time, you have to replace your bulb if you do not want your Iguanas received nothing but visible light. Linear Fluorescent bulb and compact Fluorescent bulb should be replace after every 6 months, while Mercury Vapor Bulb can last for up to 10-12 months

Your red eared slider does not eat their food, it is one of the biggest concerns that new turtle owners have. I was very excited when I first bought my baby red-eared slider. But the excitement slowly fades away when I noticed that my turtle is refusing to eat. I have tried everything to solve the problem and make sure that mu red eared slider can live a healthy and long life. And if you are in the same situation, don’t worry! Here are what I did to solve this situation.

#1 Why isn’t my red eared slider eating?

There are several reasons for red-eared sliders refusing to eat: Change of environment, Incorrect temperature ranges in the enclosure, Boring about same type of food they are given every day, No UVB light, Being ill or having some health issues. The most common reason is that they are get bore about their diet or the sudden change to a new type of food that’s different from the food it was eating before.

#2 What to do when they are refusing to eat?

if your turtle is refusing to eat the same food you give it every day, there are the big change that they get bore. If that’s the case, start to experiment. Provide them with the best food for red eared slider. Giving your pets different types of food until they start to like some of them. Aside from that, you can try to entice it with live food. The movement of live food can attract red eared slider, stimulate eating. Insects such as crickets, flies and some bugs are good choices for a start. However, you should not feed only live food, mix it with regular commercial prepared food.

#3 What to do if red-eared slider refuses to eat pellets?

This is what I have done, soaking the pellets in canned tuna water. The flavor of tuna will attract your slider and make them want to it their pellets. Besides, keep your tank temperature always constant about 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Living in the lower temperature levels for a prolonged period can make baby slider will stop eating and will postpone their growth

Almost people who are a beginner of keeping chicken think that providing water for chicken is as easy as we usually feed our cat or dog. However, there is more than one rule to do this work, and choosing chicken waterers also plays a vital role in their diet. Water chickens are not simply fill up the container, place it in the chicken coop and allow them easy to access whenever they want. These following are some must-know tips for you to water your chickens.

What is a chicken waterer?

There are some features that a waterer needs to have and some different types of them. But basically, the waterer is the device that holds water for your chicken in which they can drink from. Water plays an important role in poultry metabolism that helps chickens regulate their body temperature, digest food and eliminate their wasters. The lack of water for chicken for several hours will lead to the risk of fall in egg production.

How much water does a flock need?

It is may surprise you, on average, a full-grown chicken will require from half a litre up to 1 litre of water per day. The amount of water that they drink also depends on some factors such as the size of the chickens, the season and the temperature around them. At normal temperatures, chickens will drink at least twice the amount of food. But when the temperature is rising, chickens tent to consume water about double or quadruple the food. Remember that never limit the amount of water and the access of chickens to water. The meat birds may require more water than laying eggs chicken.

Where you should place the chicken waterers?

It is better to place the waterers in the cool, shady area in the coop. The coop will keep waterer from getting dirtied and the elements wastes; the shady area will keep the water always cool. Furthermore, you should have an additional waterer placed in the other area to ensure your flock never be lack of water.