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If you are a beginner of keeping bearded dragons, understanding about the proper way to feed them may be a complicated problem for you. In order to get started with bearded dragons, you have to figure lots of things such as how often do bearded dragons eat, what kind of food can bearded dragons eat and even nutritious and healthy diet for them, etc. This article will provide you some basic things about bearded dragon diet that all owners should know.

Bearded dragons well-balanced diet

Bearded dragons are omnivores, which means they can eat both plants and animal-based food. Bearded dragons will change their diet on age. Younger dragons need to provide more nutrients to grown, so they will eat 80% of their diet is insects and only 20% of their diet is vegetables. On the other hand, the adult bearded dragons may have the risk of obesity if they are fed much of insects. Therefore, adults should eat only 20% of insects and 80% vegetables. The adult dragons also eat less of time than he younger. Besides, you also need to ensure that do not feed them any food that larger than the gap between their eyes. The large size of food can cause chocked and also hard to digest for them.

How often do baby bearded dragons need to eat?

Under 3 months old bearded dragons need to have the diet rich in protein, they require to be fed 5 times per day with the diet contain much of live feeder than a vegetable. Babies 3-6 months old should be fed 3-4 times per day and when they reach 6 months old, you should decrease the time of feeding down to 3 times per day. Letting them eat as many insects as possible. Each meal of them should last for 10-15 minutes. Moreover, ensure that you will remove all the excess food that does not eat around 30 minutes after you feed them.

How often do baby bearded dragons need to eat?

In this period of a lifetime, adult bearded dragons almost do not grow anymore. Therefore they will need lees staple source of protein and also lees time of feeding than the babies. When bearded dragons reach 18 months old, they just need to be fed once per day for every day. Their diet should consist of only 20% protein and the rest part is vegetables. Bearded dragons even can go for a short time without eating.

Cheese is one of the popular dishes and one of the indispensable ingredients to create great dishes. You can buy cheese at any supermarket and they come in many forms. The most common form is grated cheese, and you can buy it at any store. However, pre-grated cheeses tend to contain more preservatives so they are not necessarily a great choice. That's why you need to invest in a cheese grater for your kitchen. You can grate cheese at any time and still ensure the desired size. To buy a good cheese grater, you can refer to some best cheese graters reviews, and learn more about some of the best cheese grater below.

#1 Box grater

Box grater is one of the most popular cheese grater. However, it also has pros and cons. The advantage is that it can grate a variety of cheeses from hard to soft and even some vegetables. Box grater usually has 4 sides with different shredding holes. 4 shredding holes that include different sizes: large, medium, small and raspy pinholes. The downside is that it takes up quite a bit of space in your kitchen and it's not compact enough to be easily stored.

#2 Rotary grater

Rotary grater is one of the most traditional cheese grater and it is the most effective tool to grate hard cheese. Not only hard cheese, but this device can grate other ingredients like chocolate and some nuts. So it saves time and money when you don't have to invest in many other tools. Rotary grater is also very safe to use and it also has some left handed designs. However, it is not a compact cheese grater.

#3 Micro plane grater

Micro plane grater is a compact and portable cheese grater. You can easily handle this appliance to grate cheese. It can also be used to grate certain types of vegetables.

#4 Electric grater

This is the most expensive grater, but it can shred cheese with the least effort. Often used in commercial kitchens. In addition, if you want to store them in the fridge for the next time, you cannot skip the airtight food storage box to prevent your cheese from spreading the smell of cross in the refrigerator.

If you are keeping leopard geckos due to their characteristic, easy-going, adorable colors and pattern. You also should need to be prepared their enclosure inhabitant. You need to mimic what they have in the natural environment in their tank. There are some important things you will need and the best heat lamp for leopard gecko is one of those essential requirements.  In order to install the heat lamps for a leopard gecko, you should consider these things below. The same as what we did in natural, reptiles prefer to bask on an area where has an amount of heat such as the rock, under the sun. They will spend a lot of time in this area. This is the reason why you need to set up a lamp heat or the best heat mat for leopard gecko in your pet’s tank. Your pet will have a chance to receive heat whatever they want.  If you do not have any place for your leopard gecko to lay and bask, you should add some accessories such as a stone or a platform in your tank under the heat lamp. The best way to install your heat lamp is to place it at one end of the enclosure; where it is the opposite side of the humid area and far away from the shade and the cooler part of the tank. This is to set up a temperature gradient on your tank. The ideal temperature for the basking area is about 95-98 F degrees (35-17 C degrees). It also can be higher or lower depending on your pet preference. Using a thermometer to ensure the basking area is not too hot, and the cooler area does not go down under 68 F degrees (20 C degrees). The height of the heat lamp also a factor that you should pay attention to. If you place too low, the heat lamp can burn your leopard gecko. If it is too high and far from your pet, it perhaps has no effect and the leopard gecko won’t be received enough heat. The ideal height maybe about 10-12 inches from the substrate. 

On average, a ferret will eat about 5-7% of their bodyweight in food every day. However, this ratio can be varied depend on different period of their lifetime. During growth, pregnancy, lactation or periods of high exercise they will need to eat more with higher protein level in diet. On the other hands, older ferrets may well need less than this. So, you should monitor your ferret’s weight and the best diet for ferrets should be changed accordingly is important throughout their life.

#1 What do I do if I have to change my ferret’s food?

Quickly changing your ferret’s diet can easily upset his stomach, so you want to make any changes as slowly as possible. You can get start with the mixture of the new food into your ferret’s old food at a ratio of 1 part new food to 9 parts old food. This is because if they don’t identify a food type as edible early on, it can be difficult to get them to take to it. You just should add a little more of the new food item, and take away a little more of anything you want to replace, every day. Gradually increase the part of new food and decrease the ration of old food in their diet. This slow transition can take several weeks, but do not hurry as your ferrets can be very stubborn.

#2 When should I change my ferret’s diet?

As your ferret gets older, he might become less active and his metabolism may start to slow down as well. This is when you should change their diet. Too much protein level in diet can make them gaining an unhealthy amount of weight. So you should change to the recipes, which are lower in protein and fat which means they are also lower in calories. Some younger ferrets, who have healthy problems such as kidney issues, also should be offered these reciepts. Always talk to your veterinarian before switching your ferret’s diet.

#3 Tips for changing

In the case a brand either changes its ingredient makeup or goes out of business, you should offer your pets with a variety diet from a young age will make your ferret much more open to a range of foods. Starting an older ferret on a new food can be difficult, if not impossible.

Once you get the best UVB light for Iguanas, you also have to know how to properly use it. Regardless of the UVB bulb type you choose to use with your pet Iguanas, there are some mistake you did that can block or reduce the amount of UVB rays. These following are several things to keep in mind and avoid when using UVB bulbs for Iguanas if you want your pet can receive maximum benefit from your purchase.

#1 Mounting UVB bulb further away from the cage

As you increase the distance between your pet and the UVB bulb, UVB radiation dissipates rapidly. You will have to ensure our iguana is able to get close enough to the UVB lighting for it to be effective. Most UVB bulbs will recommend in the labels with the minimum distance from the bulb. As the basic rule, Mercury vapor bulbs, should be 12-18″ away, 8-12″ inches is minimum distance for linear or compact fluorescent lighting. Make sure to consult the specific manufacturer’s recommendations before choosing the types of UVB bulbs and also carefully consider the the distance between the bulb and your pet.

#2 Block UVB rays by Glass or acrylic cage wall

If you are using a glass top on your terrarium or vivarium, and place your Iguanas tank next to the window then you cannot expect your animal to receive any UV benefit because UVB rays cannot pass through glass, and if they do, it cuts down on the output significantly. UVB rays also cannot pass through plastic and acrylic. Make sure that there is no any glass or acrylic/plexiglass between your UVB bulb and your pet. In the case if you want to setup a lid for your Iguanas cage, it is better to looking for the larger sized mesh available as screens and mesh can also block a part of UVB rays as well.

#3 Using UVB bulbs for a long time

Even you get the best UVB blubs, they all lose their effective over time. Even when the visible light output can remain the same, it not means that UVB bulbs do not degrades. UVB production will begin to drop off as soon as the bulb is first turned on. Once you use your bulb or a certain length of time, you have to replace your bulb if you do not want your Iguanas received nothing but visible light. Linear Fluorescent bulb and compact Fluorescent bulb should be replace after every 6 months, while Mercury Vapor Bulb can last for up to 10-12 months

Your red eared slider does not eat their food, it is one of the biggest concerns that new turtle owners have. I was very excited when I first bought my baby red-eared slider. But the excitement slowly fades away when I noticed that my turtle is refusing to eat. I have tried everything to solve the problem and make sure that mu red eared slider can live a healthy and long life. And if you are in the same situation, don’t worry! Here are what I did to solve this situation.

#1 Why isn’t my red eared slider eating?

There are several reasons for red-eared sliders refusing to eat: Change of environment, Incorrect temperature ranges in the enclosure, Boring about same type of food they are given every day, No UVB light, Being ill or having some health issues. The most common reason is that they are get bore about their diet or the sudden change to a new type of food that’s different from the food it was eating before.

#2 What to do when they are refusing to eat?

if your turtle is refusing to eat the same food you give it every day, there are the big change that they get bore. If that’s the case, start to experiment. Provide them with the best food for red eared slider. Giving your pets different types of food until they start to like some of them. Aside from that, you can try to entice it with live food. The movement of live food can attract red eared slider, stimulate eating. Insects such as crickets, flies and some bugs are good choices for a start. However, you should not feed only live food, mix it with regular commercial prepared food.

#3 What to do if red-eared slider refuses to eat pellets?

This is what I have done, soaking the pellets in canned tuna water. The flavor of tuna will attract your slider and make them want to it their pellets. Besides, keep your tank temperature always constant about 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Living in the lower temperature levels for a prolonged period can make baby slider will stop eating and will postpone their growth